— The hotel
Courtyard Kalnina Apartment
You know what surprised me most about the Courtyard Kalnina Apartment? It’s tucked away on the fourth floor of this building on Alfrēda Kalniņa iela, and honestly, I wasn’t expecting much from the street level – but once you get up there, it’s actually got this really nice courtyard view that gives the place its name. The location is pretty solid too, especially if you’re someone who likes being close to the action without being right in the thick of tourist central. You’re about a 10-minute walk from Old Town, which means you can stumble back after dinner without paying crazy taxi fees, but you won’t have drunk groups shouting under your window at 2 AM (trust me on this one).
The apartment itself feels more like staying at a friend’s place than a typical hotel – I mean that in the best way possible. It’s got that lived-in comfort without being shabby, and the 9.3 rating really shows. The kitchen actually works, which is rare for these kinds of places, and there’s proper counter space if you want to grab groceries from the Rimi down the street and make breakfast instead of paying hotel prices. The bathroom’s decent sized too, and the water pressure is surprisingly good for a fourth-floor walk-up. Speaking of the stairs – yeah, there’s no elevator, so pack light or be prepared for a bit of a workout with your luggage. But honestly, after a few days of Latvian food, you’ll probably appreciate the extra steps.
What I really liked was how quiet it gets at night, even though you’re still in the city center. The courtyard setup means you’re not dealing with street noise, and the neighbors seem pretty considerate. The wifi is solid (I worked from there a couple days without issues), and there’s actually good natural light during the day, which made the space feel bigger than it probably is. The only minor thing – and this is nitpicking – is that the building entrance is a bit tricky to find the first time. It’s not super obvious from the street, so give yourself an extra few minutes when you’re arriving. But the host is really responsive, and they’ll walk you through it. For a 3-star place, it punches way above its weight, and you’re getting way more value than you’d find at the chain hotels closer to the cathedral. If you’re the type who’d rather have a proper home base to explore Riga from instead of just a place to crash, this is definitely worth considering.