— The hotel
Dandelion Apartments Dzirnavu
Dandelion Apartments Dzirnavu sits tucked on Baznīcas iela, right where the old town meets the newer, bustling part of Riga. I first spotted it while wandering past the old church of St. Peter—there’s a little café called “Kava un Pīrāgs” on the corner where locals grab a quick espresso, and the building’s pastel exterior pops against the gray city walls. Honestly, it feels like a secret spot that only people who know the city will notice. The block itself is a mix of classic wooden houses and modern glass towers, so you get that old‑school charm with a splash of contemporary vibe.
When I checked in, the front desk was surprisingly friendly—no long lines, just a quick scan of my ID and a handwritten note in Latvian that said, “Labdien!” The staff did a great job explaining the apartment layout and even mentioned that the elevator can be a bit slow during peak hours, so if you’re on a tight schedule, you might want to book the 3rd floor to avoid the long wait. Parking is a mixed bag: there’s a small municipal lot just a block away, but you’ll have to pay a small fee and the space is usually taken by locals during the summer. If you’ve got a car, I’d suggest using the bike lanes that run along the canal; the city’s bike share is cheap, and you can drop off a key at the front desk if you need a lock. The noise level? Pretty decent—except for the night shift at the nearby bakery, which can be a bit of a lullaby of kneading dough.
The apartment itself is a cozy blend of 1970s Latvian design and modern touches. The living area is lit by a big window that frames the view of the narrow street outside, where you can hear the occasional clatter of a tram and the muffled chatter of people chatting in the street cafés. The kitchen is surprisingly well-equipped—there’s a real espresso machine, a kettle that boils in a minute, and a small fridge that’s big enough for a couple of bottles of local Riga wine. I found the sofa very comfortable, but the mattress—well, it’s a bit on the firm side, which I personally like, but if you’re a light sleeper, you might want to bring your own pillow. The bathroom has a glass shower that’s surprisingly spacious, and the tiles are a neutral gray that feels clean without being sterile.
The real magic, though, is the neighborhood. If you walk down from the apartment, you’ll find the old market square, where vendors sell fresh rye bread and smoked fish—taste the salt right off the counter, and you’ll know you’re in the right place. I love the little bookstore on the corner, “Vērtības,” where they have a section of Latvian literature and a few international bestsellers. For a quick snack, the bakery on the next block serves the best rye pastries—soaked, but still warm, and the smell of fresh bread lingers in the air long after you finish. If you’re into art, the gallery on Pīlāņu street is a hidden gem, featuring local contemporary artists—no large crowds, just a few quiet visitors and a lot of interesting conversation.
During my stay, I noticed the city’s rhythm shift from the early morning bustle to the late‑night calm. The evening traffic on the nearby streets can get a bit noisy, but the apartment’s windows are soundproof enough to keep the traffic hum at a manageable level. The check‑out process was quick; the front desk asked if I’d like to leave my key at the desk, which was a nice touch for travelers on a tight timeline. I left with a sense of having discovered a slice of Riga that feels both familiar and entirely new—like walking into a friend’s living room and finding a hand‑picked playlist that’s been playing for years. If you’re looking to experience a city that’s alive, authentic, and not overly touristy, Dandelion Apartments Dzirnavu is the perfect base. And trust me, the real charm is in the little streets, the sound of trams, and the taste of a freshly baked rye roll that you can’t find in most guidebooks.